MALLORCA, Spain

Mallorca was once a remote winter getaway for artists and writers. Remote no longer, this Spanish island is now home to one of Europe's busier international airports - especially in summer. Only a 2-1/2 hour flight from London, this lovely island gem set in the western Mediterranean is a favorite locale for affluent Brits looking to escape the cold and rain for the sunny warmth of this lovely Mediterranean isle.

While the sandy shoreline near the main city of Palma has become a high-rise monument to package tourism catering mostly to Brits and Germans, there are gems to be found in the warren of streets in the old part of the city, and beyond the city, a whole other Mallorca awaits.

The island's east coast has quieter beaches. On its northwest coast, rock cliffs meet the sea, and the view includes tile-roofed villages, narrow roads, and quiet coves (some accessible only from the endlessly blue sea). Granted, those narrow roads can get crowded, and looking for a parking place in August can turn into a quixotic quest, but sharing paella on the sunny patio of a small restaurant overlooking the sea near Deià is a Mediterranean memorable moment that justifies the search. And in the evening you can always drift back to Palma, where the old quarter remains a sophisticated center of fine food, café society, and nightlife that doesn't get into gear until about 11 o'clock.

BEACHES Even on this extremely popular and developed island, the coast remains inviting. Leaving Palma, you can head for the resorts lining Acúdia Bay, on the northeastern coast, and continue to Cala de Deiù, Cala Tuent, or one other secluded coves along the northern coast. The island's southern side has the most beautiful beaches, among then Ses Covets, Estrene, Mondragó, and Cala Figuera.

SAILING You haven't really seen the best side of Mallorca's stunning landscape until you've seen it from the water - and that's easy to do, because the island is home to more than 40 marinas and moorings for thousands of yachts. Charter your own boat, or crew on someone else's and make your way to the coves along the southern and eastern coasts, where the snorkeling is good and the water is warm into fall.

NIGHTLIFE Spanish evenings don't sprint, they amble, and the after-dark activities in Palma follow suit. The local rhythm calls for a warmup session of sherry, cocktails, or beers with tapas, and dinner at 10 or 11 o'clock, preferably at some charming local haunt tucked away in the city center. After a meal of fine Catalán cuisine, it's time to stagger off to the clubs and pubs, which stay open until about 3 a.m. - when it's time to head for the nearest disco. The key to keeping up? A daily siesta.